It’s a scorching hot July morning in Guimarães, northern Portugal, at the Somelos textile mill. Machines pump and clack in a joyous frenzy as they produce classical navy and blue striped cloth or eye-popping colour combos reminiscent of Bridget Riley’s artwork. Workers standing in front of large mechanical light boxes closely check fabric for any imperfections as it cascades in front of them.
I’m with a small group of about 15 people taking part in a tour organised by Portugal-based brand ISTO, which produces some of its shirting in the factory. Nuno Fernandes, a quality controller, is explaining that machines are programmed to weave only the exact amount of fabric required to complete specific orders, to ensure minimal waste.