Paris Haute Couture Day One: Dash and decadence from Schiaparelli; Azzaro and Giambattista Valli

Paris haute couture’s opening Monday  had plenty to offer the purist and the fantasist. As three very talented designers – two hired to reinvent historic Paris marques, and the other the métier’s most influential independent – offered contrasting visions of couture – from the decadent to the dashing.

Elsa Schiaparelli always had a thing for the corrida, and so does her latest successor Daniel Roseberry, whose latest collection for the house was entitled Matador Couture.

Unveiled online in a four-minute video on Monday morning, the opening day of the Paris haute couture season, the collection marked the latest post-surrealist take on the house by the Texan-born designer.

From the opening look; a sleeveless satin moiré dress in the color of Albero, the yellow organic sand of the bullring; finished with contrasting bosoms – studded conical brass on the left, woven passementerie on the right, on a model who sported giant evil-eye earrings dripping with white and indigo pearls.

Though Roseberry’s matadors will make the Alternativa – or graduation ceremony – in patchwork concoctions of baroque splendour. Cocoon coats in jacquards or even denim, hyper embroidered and worn with gold or black leather leggings. Often anchored by art deco multi-layer platforms.

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