Paris Couture Day Two: Alexandre Vauthier, Ronald van der Kemp and Viktor & Rolf

Paris couture is not just about giant global brands dressing the world’s most pampered billionaires’ wives. It’s also about rampant experimentation, and fashionable irony, as seen in three collections unveiled Tuesday: Alexandre Vauthier, Viktor & Rolf and Ronald van der Kemp.

“A little darkness reflects this moment, don’t you think,” comments Paris couturier Alexander Vauthier, who sent his entire collection to London to be shot by Alasdair McLellan.

The East London photographer shot both the look-book and Vauthier’s kicky and scratchy show video, allying UK grit to his Gallic glamour.

In the end, almost all Alexandre’s fall/winter 2021 collection was almost all in black, with dashes of crystals and silver, his response to this somber summer of never-ending pandemic.

Dark, yet dashing, and even diabolical; from the majestic leather jacket sculpted like orchids, to the décolleté black crepe jersey screen goddess dress.

And unquestionably couture with all the special workmanship that implies. Like the amazing glove leather leopard/jackets dusted in small showers of crystal courtesy of some brilliant embroidery by Lesage. Or the negligee dress in stalactites and shards of crystals, in another great performance again by Lesage.

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